Thursday, September 11, 2014

Cordoba: Peak of Muslim Empire, culture and tolerance..what happened?



Romans, Jews, Moors and Christens and a world heritage sight

Early morning train from Madrid brought us to Cordoba in about an hour. Trains are very efficient , (Unlike our flying options) never late by more than few minutes, lots of leg room, food and beautiful scenery to look around  ( in this case rows of olive trees all over rolling hills).
The train motion made me relax and dream about the childhood days when we used to make our yearly two days journey to grandma’s place . We slept on the top tier of the berth at night and during the day watched mountains, rivers, villages go by, waving to the village kids ( who jumped up and down laughing as we passed by) We looked forward to eating the special food of every major station the train stopped at. ( Golab Jamun , Kachawri, Ras Malai …just to name a few) . A had forgotten how much I loved those train journeys till now J

Cordoba is surprising pretty town. As in any medieval town in Europe, it comes with a Castle, Cathedral , Palace, cobble stone narrow streets and tourists ( lots of them). What made it special are several things:

Number one is the Masjid ( Mosque) for which tour groups stop by for few hours on the way to somewhere.  This is definitely worth more than few hours of stop over. For almost 500 years, starting in 700’s ( not accurate dates) this was the cultural,  political and intelligence center of Muslim empire. The Mosque was the biggest and grandest. It is huge but sadly not much of that is left. The crusaders took it upon themselves to make sure to erase all the Muslim art and replace it by chapels of various saints and icons of Christianity. ( I find it curious to see that all the icon worshipping, all the glitter and rituals all Jesus was preaching against was put back in within few centuries) .
In any case, the only signs of the Mosque are the Mehrab in the inside of the wall and few portions of outside walls. The Mosque is still very impressive and grand.


Inside columns of the Mosque. 



Example of one of many Christian Alters in the Mosque. All are equally ornate.



Mosque ceilings

Mehrab ( left over from the Mosque)

Outside walls, give an idea of the size of the Mosque


Jewish quarters, show typical spices used in traditional food. Narrow winding streets of Jewish quarters hide many treasures and museums.


Statue of Maimonides. He was raised Jewish but was a philosopher and a secular thinker. He believed that secular knowledge is necessary for human progress. Rubbing his feet is said to bring wisdom..
 Jewish Quarters..


Cordoba has the castle dating back to 2 nd century BC. Built by Romans, it has all the castle necessities like the wall, the living areas, the courts, stables etc etc and  it also has beautiful gardens


Mosaic work from Roman days


Finally a picture of all of us...


The gardens......




Cordoba flourished for over 500 years and then things went down hill with the arrival of conquistadors and inquisitions.  ( the castle had chambers for inquisitions:( 

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